REPORT
1. We intend to use the natural daylight coming in from the wall of windows on the right (when facing the model) as our main light, as we want to preserve the overall ambiance of the space.
2. We chose to use a Nikon 12-24mm wide angle lens to add a sense of drama to the image as well as to include architectural details and add a sense of depth to the shot (less compression).
3. We will be using an aperture of f/ 3.8-4.5, depending on light metre readings, in order to throw the background out of focus (while still being able to recognized).
4. I plan on using a tripod in order to be able to shoot at at least 1/80. Our initial reading was 1/30 and this is not optimal as our subject may not be sharply in focus. I would also like to be able to lower the ISO from 800 to 200-400, to maintain sharpness.
5. I think we will have enough available light but it depends on the day of the shoot. We are in the morning group so the light will be significantly different from when we did our test. During the test, it was overcast and by the time we had chosen our location, etc, the light was rapidly changing due to the on-coming dusk. We will aim to shoot our model between 11-noon, as the side of the building that the window is on will be in shadow in the morning and we will have to wait for the sun to move to provide enough light.
6. I think our strobe will be enough as it is fill and will be bounced from the white ceiling to replicate daylight. During our test, the power was at 1/16, so we can always increase the power should more light be needed.
7. It was challenging to control the light settings because by the time we were ready to start doing test shots with each other as models, it was past 3pm and the light was rapidly fading (digital polaroid reflects this and the final image will differ significantly). From minute to minute the light was different and we did not compensate for it by doing constant readings for the strobe. As a result, the fill was too strong, and we will be adding a neutral density filter to our equipment list to further reduce the light if needed. But again, the lighting conditions during our shoot will be completely different from during the test and the neutral density filter will be a precaution.
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| Example of the light at 2pm, which gives a better idea of how the light may look when we shoot in the morning. |
8. The main technical problems arose from the rapidly changing light, which was hard to control, but as we will be shooting during the morning, we think that by shooting more towards noon, the light will be easier to control. Also, we had to set our cameras at 800 ISO due to the changing light and we would like to reduce this to 200-400 in order to maintain sharpness. And, because we're shooting in the morning, we are likely to have to add a light to the background in order to further separate our subject. If necessary, this will be achieved by bouncing a strobe off the ceiling in the background, again to maintain the ambiance of the space. If possible, it would also be helpful to shoot tethered, so that we are able to take advantage of having the layout overlayed on the image, in order to have a pleasing composition.
9. Luckily, our model is positioned in an area that does not have pot lights or florescent lights directly above. We will be using a grey card to adjust the white balance of the natural daylight. I think that the mix of florescent and halogen lights in the background will not affect the overall color balance of the image, but should problems arise, it can easily be addressed in post.
10. We brought way too much equipment to the test and are pretty happy at being able to reduce the amount we need (both Nina and I agree that it is very necessary to do some strength training...we never want to carry sandbags again). Our list is:
1. Profoto kit (2 strobes, 2 umbrellas, 2 bowls)
2. 2 light stands
3. extension cords (3-5. These may not be necessary as our shooting area has multiple plugs within a few feet of our light etc)
4. powerbar
5. green gels (just in case)
6. 12-24mm Nikon lens
7. Grey card
8. Receiver and transmitter (1 of each)
9. Laptop with tether cord
10. Reflector disc (just in case)
11. Neutral density filters
As for special preparation, we have to style our model appropriate for our background, which is a bit of a challenge as we don't think a simple black suit would quite work. Additionally, we will have to factor in that our model will be taller (about 3-4 inches) than Nina and I, which would require re-working which angle to shoot at for best composition and I know I will have to be very careful to always be thinking of the best composition for a magazine cover. We will also have to redo all our light metre readings as the light will be completely different the morning of our shoot. We will also have to be careful about the angle and direction of our fill light, as directly above it is a mirror ceiling and we don't want to have any light bouncing onto our model from the mirror.




Julie
ReplyDeleteYou experienced one of the most challenging things about shooting on location: changing light. You are correct in assuming that shooting closer to noon will have a less dramatic effect on how fast the light changes but be prepared; light will still change!
Your analysis is very well thought out. If you know your model will be tall, consider something to stand on when you shoot.
Although you were fighting with the available light, your flash is way to strong in your polaroid in comparison to the available, and a little on the hard side considering the available. Your light is from the left but the window is on the right. This contributes to your image looking like it was lit by flash which I don't believe is your intention. If your intention as you describe it is to not use strobe down low but only bounced off the ceiling you are right is listing a reflector disc on your equipment list. Just one more thing, please include f stop readings of available light and strobe on your lighting diagram, it is not enough to say 1/16 power
digi polaroid and diagram 24/25
analysis and report 25/25